The Season of Good Will
We reflect on what this time of the year means and how we can all play our part during a very stressful time.
Kindness costs nothing but is often rewarded in beautiful ways. Up and down the country, right now, businesses are wondering how much longer they can stay open. Some have already closed like Bao Baron in Folkestone which closed its doors on Monday. A family run business that just couldn’t make it work. The business has been overwhelmed by the support is has received on social media.
Christmas is so often a stressful time but this year it runs deeper. Strikes, energy costs, soaring food prices and the costs of keeping staff are all prevalent this year. Everywhere you look there’s bad news. And yet, look a little deeper and you’ll find extraordinary acts of kindness going on in hospitality even from businesses that are teetering on the brink.
Many restaurants, such as London’s Pied a Terre, have embraced a new culture by inviting staff to come in for a meal on their days off. Owner David Moore told The Telegraph it was important to offer extra support this winter because workers “don’t want to be seen to be needing it” and he doesn’t see the cost-of-living-crisis going away anytime soon.
Other restaurants have opened emergency larders for their staff. These acts of kindness and consideration go a long way to promoting a sense of bonding in a team and demonstrate the commitment and responsibility of managers and owners.
Hospitality is a giving business and it’s true that the more you give, the more you receive.
Hospitality Mourns Paul Kitching
Much loved chef Paul Kitching passed away last week at the age of 61 leaving many who knew him in shock. Kitching ran popular restaurant 21212 in Edinburgh which held a Michelin star for a decade.
However, for many he is remembered for his Greater Manchester restaurant Juniper in Altringham which he opened in 1997. Juniper was the first restaurant in Greater Manchester to hold a Michelin Star.
The news of his passing was announced by his partner in an email. Katie O’Brien told her customers it was: “A total shock”. Later, on Twitter, she revealed: “My love has gone. But what a love x.”
Many chefs, including Tom Kerridge and Jason Atherton, have spoken of their affection and praise for Kitching who will be much missed.
Kerridge said: “A wonderful man and incredible cook…”
Jason Atherton said: ”I first met Paul Kitching in his new restaurant back then in ’95 in Altringham in Manchester and was taken aback by the passion and the quality of food he was cooking. It was food that should have been in Paris or London or NYC. He was a genius – so passionate about restaurants and food.”
Michael O’Hare, chef-patron at the Michelin-starred The Man Behind The Curtain in Leeds, wrote on Instagram: “A true avant-garde and free thinker. What a guy.”
Why We Will Miss Chef Legend Richard Shepherd
On Friday of last week the hospitality industry last week lost another of its chef legends: Richard Shepherd. What few obituaries there have been have focussed on Shepherd being one of the first British chefs to receive a Michelin Star while he was at the helm of The Capitol Hotel in the early 1979’s. However, great though that achievement was, we will remember him for a different reason and one that we included in our new book The Chefs’ Knowledge.
At Langan’s Brasserie which opened in 1977 and became one of the best-known celebrity restaurants in London Shepherd perfected a menu that broke all the rules and wrote some new ones.
With his unique experience of working in France, in Provence, Shepherd brought new ideas to Langan’s and fused them with the classic repertoire he learned at The Savoy Hotel. Soon, the menu at Langan’s was the envy of London and the wider world. It would be much copied. It still is.
The one sheet menu that also contained the wine list and was printed every day has still never been bettered and from that evolved a method of menu writing that is worth study.
Because Langan’s was so busy at peak periods Shepherd realised that customers read menus in a unique way. Language was important but so was where a dish was positioned on the menu. Chefs don’t pay much attention to this today but both things are very important.
At Langan’s if Shepherd wanted to sell a dish he put it at the bottom of the starters or at the top of the main courses. And, furthermore, if he got the language of a dish wrong it wouldn’t sell and this is where a sort of hybrid menu language evolved.
Once upon a time soupe de poisson would have been written on a classical menu. But that didn’t sell. Shepherd translated it and simply called it Provençale fish soup. It sold. But, the reverse was also true. Some translations didn’t work. Chilled leek soup, for example, never sold as well as Vichyssoise. Apple tart sold better as Tarte Tatin. On a typical Langan’s menu you might find Entrecôte béarnaise on the main courses next to cold ham and potato salad.
To Shepherd the menu was romantic and customers had understanding and were familiar with parts of the classical menu but not others. We will miss Richard Shepherd but always celebrate his unique vision and understanding of what made good food – and the way to sell it.
WIN a Foie Royale Christmas Hamper – Including the NEW Entier Truffle Foie Royale
We are delighted to share the news that Foie Royale Entier, their ethical and sustainable alternative to foie gras, was awarded Innovative Product of the Year at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair Awards 2022, demonstrating creativity and innovation at the heart of its concept.
The Foie Royale team with Ambassador Chef Dan Moon celebrating winning ‘Innovative Product of the Year’ at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair Awards 2022
Foie Royale Entier is produced by merging different batches of the Classic range which delivers the textural variation and density that you get from foie gras. Not only does it taste great and feel like a natural product in the mouth, but there is also the visual difference where the different layers’ colour and density are visible, creating a much more natural looking product.
The Entier range will undoubtedly satisfy many foie gras consumers out there; especially those who worry about how their food was made, as Foie Royale is both sustainable and produced to the highest ethical standards in Europe.
The awards are a key element of the Speciality & Fine Food Fair – the UK’s leading showcase of artisanal food and drink. Recognising and celebrating the individuals and businesses driving excellence and product innovation in the fine food & drink community, the Speciality & Fine Food Fair Awards champion all that makes the industry such a remarkable and inspiring place.
The judges for this year’s awards were Scott Winston, Buying Manager, Mindful Chef; Adrian Boswell, Food Buyer, Selfridges; Bruce Langlands, Management Consultant; Stephen Minall, Owner, Moving Food and Vhari Russell, Managing Director, The Food Marketing Expert.
Mike Logut, Managing Director of Sapphire Foods Ltd – Foie Royale commented, “It is fantastic to receive this award. After 7 years of research to create Foie Royale, the development of the Entier range was born out of consumers loving the flavour and asking for a more natural textural taste. We are very proud to have a created this product, that does indeed beg the question why any animal now needs to be gavaged or indeed even having its liver enlarged at all.”
Foie Royale New Product – Truffle Version
Following the success of the Entier range, we combined earthy Italian black truffles with our ethical and luxurious Foie Royale product, adding richness and depth to your dishes.
Perfect for the festive season.
Foie Royale Entier Goose with Truffle was launched in Fortnum & Mason, Piccadilly last week and is also available either directly at foieroyale.com or through our approved distributors.
*WIN* a Royale Christmas Hamper Worth £100
Do you fancy winning a festive hamper containing Foie Royale award-winning Entier and their newly launched Foie Royale truffle product, together with a magnificently paired Royal Tokaji Blue Label 5 Puttonyos Aszú?
This year, Foie Royale are running a ‘Win a Christmas Hamper’ every Friday, up to 16th December – 4 ROUNDS!
How to Enter the Competition
- Like the post on Instagram or Facebook.
- Follow @foieroyale on Instagram or @FoieRoyaleUK on Facebook.
- Tag your chef friends that would love to win, each tag is a new entry.
- Share to your story and tag Foie Royale for a bonus entry.
Every Friday (2, 9 and 16 December) the competition will start and announce the result of the previous round. For each round, the competition will end on Thursday, except the last round (16 December). The final round will end on Sun, 18 December and announce the result on 19 December. The winner will receive the hamper before Christmas.
Terms & Conditions
- The delivery address must be mainland UK (Excluding Scottish Highlands and Northern Ireland due to shipping limitations – sorry).
- Please only enter if you are happy for Foie Royale to announce on their story that you have won and to contact you via DM.
- If no response in 24 hours, another winner will be chosen at random.
The prize is the same for all 4 rounds – including their award-winning product – Entier and the brand-new truffle product plus Royal Tokaji (best matching with Foie Royale) and other festive items.
The competition is being held solely by Foie Royale, and promoted via The Chefs’ Forum.
ENTER NOW at either Foie Royale IG or Facebook pages.
For more information on the Foie Royale range of products please visit foieroyale.com, call them on 0800 368 7777 for a chat or email enquiries@foieroyale.com
Supplies of Foie Gras are Under Threat this Christmas
France, the main producer of foie gras, is already facing shortages of this controversial product. More than 16 million birds have been destroyed dating back to November last year because of bird flu, according to the French Ministry of Agriculture. It has plunged the industry into crisis and is threatening to create a shortage of foie gras this Christmas after the disease wiped out millions of poultry across France. In addition to that, the Ukraine war has pushed up the cost of production, warns Marie-Pierre Pe, director general of the Interprofessional Committee for Foie Gras (Cifog), who expects a 30-40% drop in supply coupled with a rise in prices this Christmas.
As of 18 October 2022, infections are six weeks ahead of where they were this time last year, according to the Animal and Plant Health Agency (APHA). There are currently 47 ongoing outbreaks across the UK, 30 of which have been confirmed since the start of October.
It is not surprising that foie gras is now disappearing from some menus as a result of this unprecedented crisis.
The dilemma for chefs – should we keep this French culinary jewel on our menus this Christmas and risk letting our customers down?
There is an ethical and sustainable alternative available to chefs that has guaranteed availability this Christmas – Foie Royale.
It’s Ethical
Foie Royale is made from the healthy and normal-sized livers of ducks and geese that live free range on some of the highest welfare farms in Germany. Our birds are reared for their meat, their livers and surplus fat are by-products of meat production and are brought together post-life, eliminating the need to engorge their livers during their life. The main goal of the product development was to create a replacement to foie gras in which animal welfare took top priority.
It’s Sustainable
Rather than cruel force-feeding, the birds are raised for their meat, fed naturally, targeted to each have up to 25 square metres of space to roam outdoors, far beyond typical free-range standards. We use the by-products of their meat production which would have otherwise been wasted.
It’s Diverse
It is an extremely versatile product, that can be seared, roasted, poached or blitzed as an ingredient in many dishes to enhance flavour, or simply used as is.
It’s Convenient
The product requires no soaking, no de-veining, or membrane removal. It is ready to use, involves less waste and has a long shelf life. There is no stress about shortage of supply.
True Alternative to Foie Gras
Foie Royale is luxuriously smooth with a distinctive rich flavour to match. Our new Entier range has the natural marbling, texture and density that you get from foie gras, and last month won Innovative Product of the Year at the Speciality & Fine Food Fair 2022.
“What chefs need to understand is the versatility of Foie Royale. You can pan-sear it, you can monte sauces with it. Like any pastry chef knows with different couvertures of chocolate, sometimes you may have to tweak just a little to get the result that you want. But the product is super to work with, the performance is great and the feedback from diners is so rewarding.” Dan Moon, Ambassador Chef of Foie Royale.
To purchase Foie Royale please visit www.foieroyale.com
It’s Black Friday at The Chefs’ Forum!
We love a deal and since everybody’s doing it we thought we’d join in with a cracker of our own. Get a copy of our new bestseller The Chefs’ Knowledge with £5 off when you buy though the website. Details of the offer code and the link are at the bottom of this article.
What is The Chefs’ Knowledge? Well, in a nutshell, it’s the first ever book written for student and junior chefs that is neither a college textbook or out-and-out recipe book. It’s a hybrid volume containing The 100 Dishes Every Chef Should Know.
However, it also contains page after page of excellent advice from some of the most well-known chefs in the country, as well as real working recipes that contain never-seen-before techniques that few ever learn. What’s not to love about that if you know a junior chef in need of an industry handbook?
The Chefs’ Knowledge has been well-received by the industry so far:
Hywel Griffith, Chef Director at Beach House Restaurant, said: “It’s beautifully put together and well thought-out. Top marks.”
Paul Gayler MBE, Chef Consultant said: “A great addition to the chefs library.”
Allister Bishop, Chef Consultant said: “Stunning. Every young chef should have a copy.”
Kitchens and colleges are stocking up on copies for their junior and student chefs. Why not take advantage of our Black Friday offer here:
To purchase The Chefs’ Knowledge CLICK HERE – Use voucher code BFRI5 at the checkout to redeem £5 OFF – Valid until midnight on Friday 25th November 2022.
International Salon Culinaire 2023 Opens for Entries
Historic chef competition International Salon Culinaire has opened for entries for 2023.
Taking place alongside Hotel, Restaurant & Catering (HRC) on 20-22 March at ExCeL London, Salon Culinaire offers chefs of all ages and skillsets the opportunity to compete in over 80 live and static competitions, from meat, cheese and plant-based challenges to desserts and sugarcraft.
Next year’s edition of the competition will see the return of popular categories including the NHS 4 Nations Chef Challenge, the Alaska Seafood Masters, Stadium Experience Chef Team of the Year and Country Range Student Chef Team Challenge, along with popular 2022 additions such as the Apprentice Challenge and Pub Chef of the Year.
Craft Guild of Chef’s National Chef Team of the Year competition, in association with Waitrose & Partners, will also have a new format at the competing chefs are challenged to construct delicious bowl food dishes.
New for 2023 is the prestigious Lumina Lamb Challenge from Official Meat Partner Alliance NZ and a new online training competition for chef lecturers in partnership with The Grande Cuisine Academy.
Steve Munkley, Salon Chef Director, comments: “Next year’s event is set to be another fantastic edition of HRC and International Salon Culinaire, attracting everyone from the UK’s leading chefs to the next generation of culinary superstars. Live competition is a great way for chefs to challenge themselves, meet industry peers and stand out from the crowd and I can’t wait to see what this year’s competitors produce.”
Among the over 70 esteemed chef judges returning for 2023 are Cyrus Todiwala OBE of Café Spice, Gary Devereaux of the House of Lords, Dennis Mwakulua of the Lexington, Nick Vadis of Compass Group UK & Ireland, Matt Owens of the Craft Guild of Chefs, Martyn Nail of the Dorchester Hotel, Yolande Stanley MBE of The Pastry Training Company and Candice Webber of Thomas Franks of London.
“We have seen our students flourish and gain massive confidence to face the world,” says Todiwala “To all chefs: be bold, be brave, face challenges and be competitive, as it is facing an audience and creating the magic that is within you that what will make the difference for your rise and future achievements, and will give you the confidence to succeed.”
New additions to the judging panel include Terry O’Riordan of Ketochefs, Shona Sutherland of the Tastyful and Scottish Culinary team and Wayne Roberts of the Royal Lancaster London.
International Salon Culinaire is working with a number of Official Equipment Partners, including combi ovens from Unox, refrigeration from Liebherr, and induction from Induced Energy. Compass Group UK & Ireland is returning as Headline Partner for 2023, continuing a long-standing partnership with the competition.
Unox will once again be taking all the Live Theatre Best-in-Class winners for on an all-expenses-paid trip to Italy to explore Venice and Padova and enjoy a guided tour around the Unox global headquarters. Read about the 2022 trip here.
International Salon Culinaire will take place on 20-22 March 2023 at ExCeL London. To find out more about all the competitions and challenges at next year’s event, and for information on how to enter, head to internationalsalonculinaire.co.uk.
Harvest will Make it 3 for The Jesse Dunford Wood Stable
First it was Parlour in Kensal Rise. Then it was 6 Portland Road in Notting Hill. Next it will be Harvest, as chef Jesse Dunford Wood continues to expand his restaurant stable.
The 40-seater restaurant on the site of a former Indian restaurant on Chamberlayne Road in Kensal Rise will be open all day from 8 until late, with a changing seasonal menu of British dishes. There will also be space for 30 outside.
Interior design will be led by Ben Masterton-Smith from Transit Studio with wrought iron art by Dunford Wood’s father Hugh.
“It’s going to be a hybrid of our two existing restaurants,” Dunford Wood said: “We’ve got a few months to work out the details, but as it is in the same neighbourhood as Parlour we don’t want to butcher each other’s businesses by offering the same things. However, the Chicken Kyiv will almost certainly make an appearance!”
Jesse is a huge asset to The Chefs’ Forum, often teaching at West London College and helping showcase the industry at our popular Taster Days.
We have also placed students to work with him, gaining vital industry experience.
We wish him all the very best with his third restaurant and are sure it will be another raging success.
18 Gault & Millau Points for “Stéphane Décotterd” Gastronomic Restaurant at Glion Institute of Higher Education
The prestigious Gault & Millau Restaurant guide dedicated to fine dining in Switzerland has once again awarded 18 points to Stéphane Décotterd for his gastronomic restaurant located in the heart of Glion Institute of Higher Education.
“Maison Décotterd” comprises three culinary spaces – the gastronomic restaurant, the bistro and the lounge bar – which together form a truly world-class gastronomic destination in a spectacular setting above Montreux. Chef Décotterd, who has been practicing exclusively local produce-based cuisine for several years, along with his wife, a former sommelier and restaurant manager, jointly manage this establishment, which is a member of Relais et Châteaux and has been awarded a Michelin star.
Salmon from Graübunden with masterwort, chicory given a tangy taste by Granny Smith apples, Lake Maggiore pikeperch with Vulliens Szechuan pepper, Pinot nor juice and red onions, Saddle of Deer from the Jura grilled with juniper wood, Pan-fried wild mushrooms and fingerling potatoes emulsion, along with desserts such as Fellenberg Plums and Meadowsweet as well as Shortbread biscuit and candied prunes: these dishes drawn from the tasting menu testify to the demanding culinary philosophy promoted by the Chef.
This approach embodies an unmistakable signature and an eco-responsible vision resolutely oriented towards promoting producers and high-quality produce, of which Chef Décotterd is also delighted to raise awareness among the international cohorts of first semester Bachelor students at Glion through a four-week internship they undertake at Maison Décotterd – alternating between the gourmet restaurant and its kitchen, the bistro and the bar.
This influence extends far beyond the borders of Switzerland, notably through the Chef’s role as vice-delegate for Switzerland and as a member of the World Culinary Council, which is committed to protecting and promoting the richness and diversity of the world’s culinary and hotel traditions and to ensuring their continuity.
It is the 11th consecutive time Gault & Millau has awarded Chef Décotterd 18 points for “extraordinary culinary excellence and creativity”. He said: “I associate my team with this magnificent distinction; with this beautiful recognition of the constancy of our commitment as well as the quest for excellence pursued by each of us.”
All Change as The 2023 Roux Scholarship Opens for Entries
The Roux Scholarship 2023 is now open for entries with the age for entry raised to 31 for the first time.
The traditional 3-month stage prize has been changed to a choice of either a 2 month stage at a 3 Michelin-starred restaurant, or a bespoke training programme tailored to the winner’s career goal.
However, the biggest challenge the 39-year-old competition faces is that of relevance. In the history of the scholarship there has only ever been one female winner and chairman Alain Roux accepted that the competition “needed to evolve.”
“It’s normal that after all these years people might start to think it’s outdated,” Roux told The Caterer. “We wanted to move things on and get away from having that stamp of being all about French food. Of course, we love it, but you can use those techniques in pretty much every style of cooking around the world.”
The competition wants to attract more female entrants and is actively looking at new ways to create a level playing field for all chefs. A whitepaper on the subject, created by leading female chefs including Sally Abé, disclosed that the perception of the competition is that is a “boys club.”
“You don’t need to work in a Michelin-starred kitchen to enter,” Alain Roux explained. “The Roux Scholarship is a challenging competition and we want people to realise that any style of chef can reach that top level – whether they work in a hospital, pub or a care home. It can be enriching personally and professionally and you can gain so much value from entering, even if you don’t get that far.
“The competition is open to everybody, and we want to spread the word and make sure people are not put off. We want to give everyone the same chance so they can win.”
The new prizes reflect the changing styles and goals of chefs. The tailored prize could include learning Japanese knife skills in Tokyo or chocolate making in France and can be taken at a convenient time in the chef’s work schedule, according to the scholarship.
There has also been a shakeup in prize money. The winner will receive up to £12,000 to support their career development as well as prizes from sponsors. £6,000 of this will be awarded to them on completion of 15 months’ service with their current employer following the competition. But, should the chef move on in that time that money will go to the original employer to develop their existing brigade.
Recipe Challenge
The 2023 competition has asked entrants to create a recipe for four people using the following ingredients and criteria:
- A striploin of dry-aged Heritage beef (without bones), weighing between 800g-900g (maximum 1kg joint) cooked and served either whole or in multiple cuts.
- In addition, use one beef offal (not veal), either heart, tongue, or kidney; together plated with two simple or composed garnishes/accompaniments. One of them must include chicory (Belgian endive) and the other can be a garnish/accompaniment of the contestant’s choice. One of these can be served separately, if preferred.
- A sauce must accompany the dish.
This year the age limit for the competition has been raised to 31-years-old to compensate for the time lost due to the coronavirus pandemic. Chefs can enter if they turn 31-years-old on or after the 1 February 2023.
Chefs have until midnight on 31 January 2023 to submit their recipes, which will be judged blind, via the online application system.
Regional finals will take place at University College Birmingham and the University of West London on 9 March ahead of the national final at Westminster Kingsway College in London on 3 April.
