Chef of the Week: Fred Tobin, Executive Chef at Royal Lancaster London
How long have you worked at your current restaurant?
I have been with the Lancaster London Hotel Company for 13 years, having started as Executive sous chef at the Landmark London, where I worked with Gary Klaner for 7 years. I moved to my current positon of Executive Chef at Royal Lancaster London at the start of the Pandemic.
Where did your passion for cooking come from and where did you learn your skills?
My passion really came after growing up in kitchens from a very young age. My father was a chef and he occasionally took me to work with him, where I would potter around in the kitchen, often eating more than I would prep! My skills were honed in the armed forces where I was able to combine being a soldier with cooking. If I’m honest, I preferred the soldier side to the cooking side of the job. When I left the army, I wasn’t really focussed on a career in catering, however when I re-joined the forces with the RAF, I started doing competition work. This helped me get noticed, and I became one of the household chefs to the Prime Minister based at Chequers, and from then, it all really took off for me. So, I was a late starter if you like.
What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
I enjoy the adrenalin of a busy service, the creativity and the precision planning. To do a job like mine, you have to think and plan ahead. Running a kitchen, or multiple kitchens is tough – military training comes in very useful.
Name three ingredients you couldn’t cook without.
Three ingredients I couldn’t cook without… well for me, that would be enthusiasm, knowledge and technique. Not the kind of ingredients you were expecting, right? However, without them, the most exotic ingredients mean nothing.
Which piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without?
I’m not a gadget or a tweezer man, I couldn’t live without my bank of combi ovens, they are the lifeline of our business. I can regen and serve a plated main course for 500 plus in 8 minutes.
What food trends are you spotting at the moment?
A lot more vegan preferences and a huge interest in the carbon footprint of a menu. We use Klimato to calculate the carbon footprint if a client requires it.
What do you think is a common mistake that lets chefs down?
Trying to run before you can walk, focussing on the salary and not the other great benefits of taking it slowly. Treat every day like a school day, take your time, enjoy the rush and respect your team.
What is your favourite time of year for food, and why?
It’s got to be spring and summer, when everything is coming to life with vibrant colours and flavours. We live in the UK, even we mere mortals start to come back to life when the dark and rainy days start to lift!
Which of your dishes are you most proud of?
I have been a chef for over 40 years, there are too many to remember! Every dish that goes on my menus and gets a great reaction from customers and sells well in our restaurants or event spaces make me proud.
If I had to choose a favourite I think it would be ‘Pan Seared Turbot with Bourguignonne Garnish’. I love a good beef bourguignon, slow cooked and rich, with a lovely red wine sauce, baby onions and wild mushrooms, served alongside a crushed potato and the king of fish, expertly pan fried to perfection. My idea of surf and turf heaven!
How do you come up with new dishes?
Collaboration. Collaborating with my team, with my guests and watching what competitors are doing. I am a judge at Salon Culinaire, it’s absolutely tremendous how inspiring it can be to see the enthusiasm from the new generation in a competition setting. I have never been a believer that I can do it all myself, like I said, collaboration is key.
Who was your greatest influence?
Really tough question as there have been so many influences in my life. I think it would have been Willi Elsener and Henry Brosi from my time at The Dorchester. The hotel was flying and banqueting was busy with quality and volume all day every day. There were high-pressure menu tastings and events and everything ran with precision.
Tell us three chefs you admire.
Gary Klaner, a great chef and a good friend. He mentored me before I took over here at Royal Lancaster London, and he helped me find my way in a really tough business.
Stuart Gillies, my old school mate. We worked together for a while but he went the restaurant route and I went the hotel route. He became MD for Gordon Ramsay, what an achievement! He now has his own restaurants – well done Stuart on a fantastic career.
Finally, it would be my son, Ciaran Tobin. Just like me, he found his passion a bit later in life after finishing university. All of a sudden, he wanted to be a chef, and he’s worked for two years at The Dorchester under Mario Perera and Martyn Nail. He enjoys competition work much like myself, and the extra adrenalin rush that comes with it. He is now moving on to The Frog in Covent Garden, under the extremely talented Adam Handling. I am a very proud dad!
What is your favourite cookbook?
I have a few favourites, but I would say ‘Ritz Paris Haute Cuisine’ recipes by Michel Roth.
Who do you think are the chefs to watch over the next few months?
A loaded question, but I am definitely going to say Adam Handling at The Frog in Covent Garden.
What’s been your favourite new restaurant opening of the last year?
I do hear that Victor Garvey at the Midland Grand is one to watch. He is using classic French cuisine with modern techniques. I will be booking in there sometime soon.
