Chef of the Week: Ryan MacFarlane, Head Chef at Waldorf Astoria – The Caledonian in Edinburgh
How long have you worked at your current restaurant?
It will be five years in February.
Where did your passion for cooking come from and where did you learn your skills?
I have been very lucky with where l have worked and who l have worked with, which is why l have enjoyed the career for so long.
What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
Every day is different.
Name three ingredients you couldn’t cook without.
Butter, tea and salt.
Which piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without?~
My teacup!
What food trends are you spotting at the moment?
Street food is in, and some cracking food.
What do you think is a common mistake that lets chefs down?
Some chefs still think we should be working long hours, these days are gone and we need to adapt to keep the talent in the industry before they all leave for jobs with better hours.
What is your favourite time of year for food, and why?
My favourite time of the year is when the Scottish strawberry season kicks off, nothing better to eat.
Which of your dishes are you most proud of?
I am proud of all the afternoon teas that we create here at Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh.
Who was your greatest influence?
My biggest drive when starting out was to make my mum proud.
Tell us three chefs you admire.
Willie Pike, Malcolm Webster and Gary Thomson.
What is your favourite cookbook?
Gary Rhodes, New British Classics.
Who do you think are the chefs to watch over the next few months?
Dean Banks is a busy chef at moment and it is always nice to watch what he is up to.
Chef of the Week: Jude Kereama, Chef Patron at Kota in Cornwall
How long have you worked at your current restaurant?
We opened Kota in 2006 and Kota Kai in 2011.
Where did your passion for cooking come from and where did you learn your skills?
My mum was the most amazing cook and I learnt to love food from her. Later I did a course in New Zealand and worked in some excellent restaurants back there.
What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
The thing I love most about being a chef is the fun and excitement each day brings. No two days are ever the same and it is a joy to do something I truly love.
Name three ingredients you couldn’t cook without.
Salt, garlic and butter.
Which piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without?
I have so many essential pieces of kit but maybe it is my Lincat Combi Oven.
What food trends are you spotting at the moment?
Food trends come and go, but the one thing that really matters is that there seems to be a lot more individuality in every chef’s style, and there are so many excellent chefs in Cornwall.
What do you think is a common mistake that lets chefs down?
It is hard to put a finger on common mistakes that chefs make when I am focusing on my own restaurants. If there is one thing, we take everything to heart so much because we want people to enjoy what we cook. All we want to do is make people happy with food.
What is your favourite time of year for food, and why?
I love cooking in all seasons, but Spring has to be the best as the new season veg come out. Foraged produce like wild garlic, and seaweed are out ; new season lamb, flowers, asparagus, and peas are all in season too.
Which of your dishes are you most proud of?
At Kota, I produced a dish called Rockpool which was for GBM. It reflected on the time spent with my son in rockpools in Porthleven and produced we get locally.
How do you come up with new dishes?
Dishes can be inspired by seasons and experiences dining out or a childhood memory. Some dishes get reinvented and better with time as well.
Who was your greatest influence?
My greatest influence on my cooking has been my childhood and travelling to countries I thought I would never ever see growing up in New Zealand.
Tell us three chefs you admire.
Roux Brothers (surely that is one influence), Simon Rogan and Raymond Blanc.
What is your favourite cookbook?
Larousse Gastronomic has been my kitchen bible for so many years as a young chef and even now.
Who do you think are the chefs to watch over the next few months?
There are so many young talented chefs buy you could say Spencer Metzger from the Ritz who took GBM by storm last year. I am cooking with him at the Great Chefs Dinner in London for NSPCC.
What’s been your favourite new restaurant opening of the last year?
It is hard to get out and eat but the best new restaurant I have been to recently is 45 Queen Street in Penzance. The food is on point, delicious, and best of the season. Love it.
Chefs Spill the Beans for Christmas
If you’re looking for some last-minute inspiration for the big day, then we’ve found three chefs who have emptied their Christmas lockers and given the lowdown on the traditional Christmas lunch.
Whether it’s a turkey brine, a classic roast spud or a brilliant Yule log you’ll never look back with these top tips.
First up its chef Aaron Middleton from MasterChef: The Professionals 2021. His Insta channel is celebrating 25 days of Christmas with a whole bunch of great videos that really help with those basics. Take look at Aaron’s Instagram feed here: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmbpM9EoaMa/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Alexandra Duncan, our National Business Manager has already nailed the Spiced Orange and Honey Glazed Gammon and will set to work on the Maple Glazed parsnips and Honey Glazed carrots tomorrow!
Or, you can head to 2 Michelin Star chef Daniel Clifford of Midsummer House in Cambridge. His seasonal series of Christmas vids contain brilliant tips on brining, veg cooking and pimping up mince pies. Our own editor Chandos Elletson has already sworn that these roasties are the best he’s ever cooked. You can find all the deets here:https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cl29xvrNJxp/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Finally, we must pay tribute to the incredible sensation that is Poppy Cooks. The former chef is all over Insta and TikTok with her potato recipes and now some really top Christmas turkey recipes. Chefs’ Forum Director Catherine Farinha has gone for the dry brine by Poppy (and by all accounts its looking good). Check out Poppy’s Instagram feed here: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmZr_69sZuw/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
She’s also spreading the love in plumping for MasterChef Winner and restauranteur Simon Wood’s roast potatoes as spotted on Instagram, which sound and look absolutely delicious!
He’ll no doubt be serving up mountains of the bronzed and boogie beauties at Wood Restaurant Manchester!
All that remains to be said is: HAPPY CHRISTMAS from us all. See you in the New Year. 2023 looks really exciting with new additions to our new publishing division, loads of lunches, more academies and more chefs for our students to learn from.
Spare a Thought for Homeless Chefs
Yes, it does happen. Paul, pictured, was one of them. Two years ago he lost his accommodation in the pub where he was working closed during lockdown. He slept rough for a few “scary” weeks.
However, Paul was one of the lucky ones. He was helped and supported by two charities: The House of St Barnabas and Only A Pavement Away. Through their help and assistance Paul got back on his feet and has been working at The Ivy Asia for the last two years. His life is now steady.
We spoke to Karen Wallin, head of marketing and fundraising at Only A Pavement Away. She told us:
“There are thousands of others just like Paul who are at risk of becoming homeless right now as the cost of living soars. They may not be sleeping rough as homelessness can take many different forms.
“One of those is when you are forced to “sofa surf” moving from one friend’s put-up bed to another. Or living in a shelter, hostel or temporary council accommodation. The saddest extreme is when someone has no option but to sleep outside on the street.
“Only A Pavement Away is a charity which provides pathways out of homelessness into purposeful employment within hospitality. As part of their programme they also help members find a smooth transition from homelessness by providing short term financial assistance to ensure a successful and stable return to work.”
Paul remarked: “Since Only A Pavement Away helped me back into full time employment, I’ve got money, I am able to pay my bills, buy myself clothing, and have found myself a place to live. My life is very stable and secure now which it had not been for a very long time.”
Karen continued: “With many having to make difficult choices about paying for food, heating and rent right now Only A Pavement Away will ensure any member facing these unthinkable decisions have the extra support they need.”
Homelessness can happen to anyone – If you are able to contribute to help people just like Paul, find Stability Through Employment this winter, please CLICK HERE to donate THANK YOU.
The Season of Good Will
We reflect on what this time of the year means and how we can all play our part during a very stressful time.
Kindness costs nothing but is often rewarded in beautiful ways. Up and down the country, right now, businesses are wondering how much longer they can stay open. Some have already closed like Bao Baron in Folkestone which closed its doors on Monday. A family run business that just couldn’t make it work. The business has been overwhelmed by the support is has received on social media.
Christmas is so often a stressful time but this year it runs deeper. Strikes, energy costs, soaring food prices and the costs of keeping staff are all prevalent this year. Everywhere you look there’s bad news. And yet, look a little deeper and you’ll find extraordinary acts of kindness going on in hospitality even from businesses that are teetering on the brink.
Many restaurants, such as London’s Pied a Terre, have embraced a new culture by inviting staff to come in for a meal on their days off. Owner David Moore told The Telegraph it was important to offer extra support this winter because workers “don’t want to be seen to be needing it” and he doesn’t see the cost-of-living-crisis going away anytime soon.
Other restaurants have opened emergency larders for their staff. These acts of kindness and consideration go a long way to promoting a sense of bonding in a team and demonstrate the commitment and responsibility of managers and owners.
Hospitality is a giving business and it’s true that the more you give, the more you receive.
Chef of the Week: Gary Townsend, Head Chef at One Devonshire Gardens in Glasgow
How long have you worked at your current restaurant?
I’ve been head chef at One Devonshire Gardens for five years.
Where did your passion for cooking come from and where did you learn your skills?
I fell into becoming a chef by accident, but it was the best chance decision I made. I went to college in Peterborough and worked at Tuddenham Mill under Paul Foster and another fantastic chef Lee Bye. Both chefs really ignited a passion in me.
What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
I love giving customers an experience, seeing their reactions to something I’ve created, it’s such a humble feeling. I also think now, at my stage in my career it’s about passing some of my knowledge onto others and watching the passion coming through from my team. Of course it’s a tough career but the feeling of delivering a demanding but excellent service and seeing the pride of the team in achieving that, is golden.
Name three ingredients you couldn’t cook without.
Butter, chocolate and salt.
Which piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without?
My knives.
What food trends are you spotting at the moment?
Experimentation with fermentation is something I’m seeing more and more, not just for the perceived health benefits, but using this in different dishes to really enrich flavour combinations.
What do you think is a common mistake that lets chefs down?
Prioritising presentation over taste.
What is your favourite time of year for food, and why?
Tough one as each season brings its own fantastic produce, but I’d probably say autumn. I love foraging and Scotland produces some great late fruits like brambles, damsons and quince, as well as wonderful mushrooms and root vegetables. Game season is also kicking in… the choice of how to use this fantastic haul is endless.
Which of your dishes are you most proud of?
I’m really proud of my National Chef of the Year final dishes this year. My starter of Gigha halibut, maitake mushroom, wild rice, radish and mushroom noisette. My main course of Mill bank deer – loin, heart, sausage, Jerusalem artichoke & huntsman sauce. Dessert – Beetroot & apple tart tatin – cinnamon ice cream.
How do you come up with new dishes?
I read a lot of cook books for inspiration, eating out also helps spark the imagination, but also just trial and error. A lot of error sometimes haha!
Who was your greatest influence?
Martin Wishart had been the biggest influence in my career. My time there taught me so much. Not just in cooking style, but in approach and how to conduct yourself in the kitchen.
Tell us three chefs you admire.
Martin Wishart, Lisa Goodwin-Allen and Kenny Atkinson.
What is your favourite cookbook?
Difficult one… I have so many… Sat Bains – Too Many Chiefs Only One Indian.
Who do you think are the chefs to watch over the next few months?
Liam Rogers from Gleneagles, a chef that’s already achieved so much in a short amount of time – certainly big things on the way for this guy and Jeremy Chan – chef at Ikoya, they have not long moved to a bigger premises and it’s somewhere I’ve always wanted to visit.
What’s been your favourite new restaurant opening of the last year?
The Ledbury. I was there in the first month of it reopening this year after a nearly 3 year hiatus and it was outstanding. Brett Graham, Tom Spenceley and the team have created something so special. It was outstanding from start to finish.
Hospitality Mourns Paul Kitching
Much loved chef Paul Kitching passed away last week at the age of 61 leaving many who knew him in shock. Kitching ran popular restaurant 21212 in Edinburgh which held a Michelin star for a decade.
However, for many he is remembered for his Greater Manchester restaurant Juniper in Altringham which he opened in 1997. Juniper was the first restaurant in Greater Manchester to hold a Michelin Star.
The news of his passing was announced by his partner in an email. Katie O’Brien told her customers it was: “A total shock”. Later, on Twitter, she revealed: “My love has gone. But what a love x.”
Many chefs, including Tom Kerridge and Jason Atherton, have spoken of their affection and praise for Kitching who will be much missed.
Kerridge said: “A wonderful man and incredible cook…”
Jason Atherton said: ”I first met Paul Kitching in his new restaurant back then in ’95 in Altringham in Manchester and was taken aback by the passion and the quality of food he was cooking. It was food that should have been in Paris or London or NYC. He was a genius – so passionate about restaurants and food.”
Michael O’Hare, chef-patron at the Michelin-starred The Man Behind The Curtain in Leeds, wrote on Instagram: “A true avant-garde and free thinker. What a guy.”
Chef of the Week: Charlie Partridge, Head Chef at The Pityme Inn in Cornwall
How long have you worked at your current restaurant?
I have worked as a head chef for Cornish Inns for the last 3 years, and took over the head chef role at the Pityme Inn abot 2 months ago.
Where did your passion for cooking come from and where did you learn your skills?
I have always had a passion for the kitchen, even at school. As I got older, I found myself drawn to it within my jobs and wanting to learn more and more. I have worked alongside some great chefs which has allowed me to adapt my own techniques and flare in the kitchen.
What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
I enjoy mixing new flavours and techniques together to get new dishes, experimenting is the most fun thing as a chef. (It does not always go to plan).
Name three ingredients you couldn’t cook without.
Garlic, onions and honey.
Which piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without?
My knives.
What food trends are you spotting at the moment?
Climate conscious foods.
What do you think is a common mistake that lets chefs down?
Thinking there is never something new to learn.
What is your favourite time of year for food, and why?
This is a hard one because I love the winter with all the hearty root vegetables and warming dishes. However, I equally love spring for the lighter fish dishes.
Which of your dishes are you most proud of?
This is a question chefs are asked a lot, I don’t have a single one dish I am most proud of because my pride comes when our guests have enjoyed the food and the experience.
How do you come up with new dishes?
I always take inspiration from current dishes and inject my own twist. It’s not always about reinventing the wheel.
Who was your greatest influence?
Like I said before, I have worked with a lot of great chefs and have taken a piece of their cooking with me.
Tell us three chefs you admire.
- Andy Appleton
- Gordon Ramsey
- Rick Stein
What is your favourite cookbook?
The Hidden Hut.
Who do you think are the chefs to watch over the next few months?
I think there are a lot of young chefs out there, it could be anyone!
What’s been your favourite new restaurant opening of the last year?
I don’t have a favourite restaurant of the last year but I think there are a lot of new pub restaurants doing some great things.
Halibut But Not as We Know It
Have you come across the white salmon? We hadn’t until we started working with Royal Greenland where the Greenland halibut comes from. It’s a flat, oily, white fish with very few bones that is very versatile. With our curiosity suitably piqued we set out to find out more.
Greenland halibut is found in the North Atlantic and the Arctic Ocean, from Canada in the west to Norway in the east. It’s is a flatfish that is dark on the upper side and lighter on the belly. It has a set of sharp teeth for hunting its prey such as prawns, krill, capelin and redfish. The Greenland halibut is also known to prey on Atlantic cod, grenadier or squid. It lives near the bottom and prefers depths of 200-2,000 metres, where water temperatures remain below 4°C.
As a fish it is highly appreciated for its snowy-white meat which has a delicate and soft texture. It is easy to cook with, recognised for its delicate flavour and extremely rich in omega-3 fatty acids.
Greenland halibut appears to have all the attributes of red salmon but the added advantage of having white flesh.
“The chef at the Food Sorcery Kitchen in Didsbury put the Greenland halibut to the test and came up with a dozen of possibilities,” Royal Greenland’s Solenne Labarere, told The Chefs’ Forum.
“He came up with ceviche, carpaccio, BBQ, pan-fried, deep-fried, curried and many more. It can take pungent flavours but also work well with more traditional flavours (brown butter, capers etc).
“We are selling the fillet skinless as it is really hard to make the skin crispy, like you would with cod for instance. The Greenland halibut has been a delicacy in Greenland for centuries, but has with good reason also won popularity around the world. It is easy to work with, almost impossible to overcook and works in numerous dishes. This makes the Greenland halibut an easily incorporated ingredient in cooking.
“The texture of the flesh is soft and tender, with a bright white appearance both cooked and raw. In terms of flavour, the Greenland halibut offers a sweet and mild umami experience, which is complimented well by a slightly sour or bitter opponent, or by a touch of salt to enhance the umami and lessen the sweetness.
“In terms of nutrition, the Greenland halibut offers a high content of healthy fat and omega-3 fatty acids, while also being a good source of vitamin D, phosphorus and selenium.
“The processing of Greenland halibut begins at our Greenlandic factories and on board our vessels. The land-based factories are located as close to the harbour as possible, to provide the shortest route from sea to processing.
“At our land-based factories, the Greenland halibut is cut into different products, such as J-cut, fillets with and without skin, frills or head-on gutted. At sea, the two trawlers Sisimiut and Tuugalik are equipped to process the Greenland halibut as a J-cut before being frozen, or simply frozen as whole round fish”.
Chef of the Week: Marcilio da Silva, Head Chef at BaxterStorey in London
How long have you worked at your current restaurant?
I’m working for BaxterStorey. I recently moved to work in a new corporate street food concept for BaxterStorey, I’ve been working here for almost 5 months.
Where did your passion for cooking come from and where did you learn your skills?
My mum – She was my inspiration to become a chef. She is a chef back home in Brazil, I grew up watching and helping her to cook. I developed my basic cooking skills to get me my first job in London.
What do you enjoy most about being a chef?
I love to cook and I love people, combine those two things together and I feel blessed. I like the challenge of the kitchen.
Name three ingredients you couldn’t cook without.
Eggs, flour and butter.
Which piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without?
Rational oven and Thermomix.
What food trends are you spotting at the moment?
I love street food, I see a lot of places trying to incorporate it in their menus.
What do you think is a common mistake that lets chefs down?
Planning, everyone should always be ahead of the game, planning your menus, planning your day, planning your tasks, this helps chef to enjoy their job.
What is your favourite time of year for food, and why?
I love the spring, the variety of colours, textures and flavours you do not find at any other time of year.
Which of your dishes are you most proud of?
I produced a lot of smoked meat, I do love my smoked short ribs – Long hours of cooking at a slow heat.
How do you come up with new dishes?
Time to time I like to go visit some local street markets and see what they have available. I do a lot of research about seasonal products and follow a lot chefs on social media.
Who was your greatest influence?
My mum, she is very passionate about cooking. Also, I love the Brazilian chef, Alex Atala, the way he changed the Brazilian cuisine, we are so proud of him as chef. He is very humble and a good chef.
Tell us three chefs you admire.
I like, Alex Atala, Felipe Bronze and Massimo Bottura.
What is your favourite cookbook?
Feast by Simon Boyle – The reason I like this is that my recipe is in the book!
What’s been your favourite new restaurant opening of the last year?
I’ve been to Paradise restaurant in Soho, it is Sri Lankan elevated cuisine. The food and the service is incredibly good, the combination of the flavours and the presentation of the dishes is the best of the best.